Big Bend National Park, Texas: Johnson Ranch

Wed, Feb 27th: Drove through Terilingua and needed to get gas. While getting fuel, we found the Big Bend Motor Inn Store and Restaurant. It was a buffet style breakfast, reminded me of Forestburg Scout Camp, especially with Jon being there. It’s funny how a major part of my life started around things I did as a Boy Scout. I became a Life Guard because of the Lifesaving Merit Badge. I went to a Camporee in Sandy Hook and saw a demonstration with a Coast Guard helicopter and a 41′ Foot Utility Boat. I remember lining up with hundreds of other Boy Scouts on the shore to watch the demo. Few years later, when I was Stationed at Sandy Hook, I was the one on the 41′ Foot Utility Boat in front of the Boy Scouts. Full Circle. Anyway, I still use skills I learned in the Scouts to this day. Even this adventure I’m on now, most of my camping skills started as a 13 year old. Jon and I remarked on how our younger selves would not be surprised with us camping at 48+ years old but definitely impressed with our equipment.

 

 

We drove through the west side of the park taking the Ross Maxwell Scenic drive. We then stopped at the Sotol vista where Furi almost met an angry Jack Russell. We checked out the history at Castalon, asked the Ranger where we could get some water and she asked if we wanted gallons, thinking we wanted to buy it at the store. I said we have containers and she told us to head down to Cotton Wood camp ground. After we picked up some fresh water, we headed to Santa Elana Canyon Overlook and then to the Santa Elana Canyon itself. Furi is not “Officially” allowed on the trails and there were too many people to attempt to sneak it, so Jon went first and then I checked it out while he watched Furi. Pretty cool view.

We tracked back and found River Road West and I shifted into 4WD Low and headed south-east. During the trip, there was a bunch of off-road motorcyclists overtaking us. We also saw a lone motorcycle and we initially though they might need help but we also suspected they could have been just taking a dump/piss off the trail. We finally got to Johnson Ranch campground which was 15.51 miles down the River road west.

This was a bit different style campsite compared to Telephone Canyon.

We were tucked down in a depression with rock incline on one side and mesquite trees on the other side. We set up camp and it’s obviously easier with two of us with Furi somewhat supervising. Behind the campsite was some livestock manure and hoofprints. We theorized they were from tour groups to cartels hauling drugs. We found out what it was a few days later.

We had no cell phone reception. So we of course talked, read, listened to music and some podcasts (Jon apparently is not a fan of Henry Rollins but Ari Shafir wasn’t the best interviewer either). We talked about old times and joked about Jon’s Senior Prom date hopefully working at a rough neck bar we passed called, “The I Don’t Care cafe” (I regret not taking a picture of it). We mapped out our town of Elberon, where everyone lived and remembered names and stories from us being kids up to high school. Regarding High School, Jon is a half full guy while I’m a half empty guy but he did change my perspective on some things. Looking back, you have to remember that we were kids and need to judge it by those standards and not as an adult. Teenagers are essentially assholes, including myself but we don’t know any better for lack of wisdom. For the record, I hated High School…..but those 4 years are a small blip in many years of other adventures, achievements and accomplishments. So why focus on it? At least that’s my take.

A man in a Jeep drove by. He introduced himself said he was going to camp at the other site and was going to see the sights and be back later.

I cooked some hatch chili steak that night and demonstrated the method of using tortillas for everything to Jon. It’s all about efficiency and less mess to clean. I think he was impressed.

Later on that evening, the man with the Jeep came back and set up his camp. He kept to himself and we kept to ourselves. The night was a little hazy and we eventually had some good star gazing.

Before we hit the rack, we talked that night about figuring out the mysteries of universe but mostly laughed about our time as teenagers. Furi kept Jon’s feet warm.

Thur, Feb 28th: Light Breakfast (I wasn’t impressed with my cooking that morning). One of the cool things that happened was we had a pretty visible Dust devil head right to our camp and dissipate. It was kinda surreal and I half expected the Tasmanian Devil cartoon to jump out of it.

The guy with the Jeep packed up his camp and left, he took some pictures of our camp when he left.

Jon hiked out with Furi to the Rio Grande. I was surprised that he went with her because she’s usally so attached to me but that means she trusts him. While Jon and Furi hiked, I rearranged gear. This seems to be an ongoing thing for me, either restoring, reorganizing or setting up for different priorities. I think it’s an OCD manifesting. Later on, I heard Jon call for Furi and got a bit worried but she came running through the brush followed by Jon. She was wet and smiling, apparently she jumped in the Rio Grande and suprised Jon. Furi loves the water and it’s funny, Jon was also with Furi when she first started swimming on our camping trip, post retirement.

While we were relaxing (a hughe part of the trip), a Blue Ford Raptor with severely tinted windows pulled up on the hill above us. The way our camp was set up, you couldn’t see us unless you were right on top of us. The Raptor stopped, backed up and left. Didn’t roll down the windows or anything. We thought it was strange and I thought it was weird that a truck that starts at $58k to 78k, would be out here in the middle of nowhere. It seemed like some Drug Cartel shit but it could have been us being paranoid. It just seemed a bit off and later on, possibly was involved with another incident the following day.

We then hiked out to a cross that I saw in the distance. We walked over the area where the Johnson Ranch house foundation may have been. It was complete with rusted out car parts. We finally made it to the Cross. We found a small graveyard but no names or markings. I couldn’t find any info about it.

Jon and I made bet on how far the mountains were, Jon’s estimate was way too close. I think I was a mile off but Jon disputed it. Dispute is a factor of our friendship, I think I usually lose too.

A few hours later, another Jeep pulls up at a distance. A Man, Woman and young woman get out and walk towards us. Furi starts to go nuts and a I reassure them she’s friendly but she’s initially defensive. Furi calms down and flips on her back for belly rubs. They ask me about river access and I yell to Jon to give them the info. For some dumb reason, I sheepishly tell the gentlemen that I have a weapon on me and he just said, “This IS Texas” and I laughed….I forget that Texas is way more gun friendly than I’m used to. I notice the gentlman has a Coast Guard hat and I remark that, “I like the hat” and we are both former Coasties. Turns out, his son is an Marine Enforcement stationed in Alameda. Small world, I told him I retired out of Station Golden Gate. We make some jokes about the Bay Area and Law enforcement. They were very nice are also owners of a bar in San Antonio called Thirsty’s. They invited us there for a drink! We had some more small talk, they checked out the roof top tent set up and they went on their way.

I think I made seasoned chicken that night, we cleaned and packed up all non-essentials so we could hit the trail early to hit the showers in Rio Grande Village and then hit up Mexico.

The night was clear and we had some good star-gazing.

Fri, Mar 1st: Early in the AM, we hear something breathing and walking around the camp. Furi growled but she quieted down when I told her to shush (it’s nice when she does that). It was still dark and you could barely see it but by its profile, it looked like either a horse or a burro. Jon was on the Horse side while I was on the Burro side. Of course we argued about it later. (We asked a ranger later and he said it was a wild burro)

We awoke a few hours later, packed up the rest of the camp and drove to the Rio Grande Village Camp. We showered one at a time, so one of us could watch Furi instead of keeping her in the rig. Jon met another dog owner and I talked with her when I was finished. Her dog would butt Furi with his butt. Of course there people on computers or phones getting their fix in. I fully get it but it’s nice to disconnect sometimes too. We topped off the fuel and I asked the attendant about water, he told us the Ranger Station up the road has a spigot. We headed to the Ranger Station and replenished our water and when we left the parking lot, a Ranger came out and waved us down, I thought I had fucked up something or a permit issue but she told me I had left my credit card at the Gas Station. Thank god, I headed back there, picked up the card and thanked the man.

We were now headed to Mexico.

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